It’s the shrimp that do us in. We’re at Quiora, the Ritz-Carlton Residences’ open-air Italian eatery seven floors above Waikīkī, so we’re expecting a certain level of posh. Unlike La Vie, the nearby French restaurant sandwiched between the Ritz’s lobby and Sushi Sho, Quiora is its own cocoon of casual refinement at the end of a long, meandering walkway. Muted conversations float across the lānai to the infinity pool below, over the treetops of Fort DeRussy and toward the sun setting on the horizon. At this height the Ritz-Carlton owns this view, an unexpected sight line straight to the sea. Into this scene our shrimp arrive, vibrant bursts of coral-orange nestled in a bowl, and we dredge the shelled bodies in the zesty sauce of Calabrian chiles and garlic and then, abandoning fork, knife and all decorum, we pick up the grilled heads with our fingers and rapturously chomp on their briny, umami-saturated brains.