Are we back to normal? As I shuffled through the archives to choose my favorites of the new restaurants I reviewed this year, it sure looked that way. New York City’s restaurant business, among the first pieces of the economy to fall to the pandemic and among the last to recover, has come roaring back on a flood of Negronis and orange wine. Last year, particularly in the first half, openings were scattered. Many new places had a provisional, shoestring approach. This was handy for adapting to a disease that seemed to change every few weeks.